Nerf Guns» – Nerf N-Strike Dart Guns

Nerf Recon Modification (Removal of Air Restrictors)

Admin — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 11:19:38 +0000

1. Take the gun apart to the point that you can remove the bolt and bolt sled.
2. Using a 1/2" flat blade wood-boring drill bit in a drillpress of power drill, drill the backplate out from behind the restrictor spring.

Until the parts will poop out the back of the bolt. It may take a few up-and-down passes using the 1/2" flat blade bit before the lip is removed to the point that all of the pieces will come out.

3. You now have the restrictor removed. If you want to remove the peg you can again use the flat blade drill bit to cut it out from the back of the bolt. Then using a really long screwdriver, or whatever is long and skinny enough to fit, to push it out the back of the bolt.

4. Use some aluminum tape or your favorite decorative sticker to cover up the hole in the side of the barrel portion of the bolt.
Anything stickier than electrical tape will work fine.
5. Before putting the gun back together I would recommend removing the jam door because doing so makes getting the gun back in one piece MUCH easier.

6. Now when your gun is unloaded you can see from the muzzle all the way to the back of the plunger chamber.

You should get ATLEAST 15 more feet using the stock darts. Longer darts work best because they get forced further back into the usable barrel portion of the bolt.
If you want to be able to ram-rod stefans in from the muzzle you will have to glue a 1/2" OD tube into the bolt piece somewhere to prevent them from getting stuck in the plunger chamber. I'll update this post of what length to glue in from the back sometime soon

And that's how I did it. I'm contemplating other possible mods (like banding, adding a second spring, making a new bolt from scratch), but I don't know when I'll get around to them.

Source: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10593

Nerf Recon Modification (Spring Upgrade)

Admin — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 11:02:02 +0000

Ok, so I got the first ever Recon sold in the Niskayuna, NY Target. They were unpacking the boxes in the nerf aisle and hadn't even gotten to the Recons, but I asked if they had it, and indeed it was in one of the boxes. Anyway, so the last two days I've been looking at it trying to make the somewhat mediocre ranges better. An AR removal (which was very annoying) was the first step. I noticed that the spring is not fully compressed when the gun is cocked, however. This is the fix:

Take your Recon

Get It Apart

(The E-Tape on the bolt is from my AR removal/fiasco)

Take some sort of wire, I used two conductor 24 gauge speaker wire, and wrap it around the plunger tube at the end that is furthest into the gun, the left side in the above photo. 3 times around was perfect for me. Then E-Tape it there nice and securely.

Put it back the way you found it.

To test, put the other side of the gun back on, hold everything together, and make sure it still cocks. If not, trim some wire off. Mine requires a pretty swift pull to get it to cock, but that is because the spring is at full compression.
This did improve range on my Recon, but it is hard to measure because the streamlines are floaty and do not always go their full distance. CDTS didn't work to well for me either, but I might just be an error in making them.

EDIT: BlackFox just informed me that sch. 40 3/4" thin wall PVC also works instead of the wire.

Source: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10498

Nite Finder Modification (German Style)

Admin — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 10:42:56 +0000

For my mod u need the following:

--> Hotglue
--> 2-component-glue
--> a Pepsi bottle
--> a harder spring
--> several files
--> 1/2" va-steel pipe
--> a tool to drill some holes

the mod is quite easy, you change the spring, take the lid of the bottle and drill a hole for the "streching-stick" (how would you guys call it ?) in the middle of it. remove that overpressure valve inside the original tube, then saw off the smaller targeting part from the tube. after all, you need to file the front nozzle to fit to the steel pipe. use a lot of glue for all parts, because they are only sticked together. the new spring i use is so strong, it would burt the whole gun otherwise..... here are some pictures:

here you see the targeting thing i sawed off and put it back in the gun...

here is a picture of the steel pipe i glued on the pressure tube:

use a lot of fat to smooth the way of the spring and to insulate the tube....

here i have the original and the new spring, furthermore you can see the pepsi-lid
(cutted):

another pic:

the filed nozzle:

the glued steel pipe:

and thats the baby after all modification done:

after all i have to say that with this mod i can shoot nearly twice the distance than
unmodded. the nite finder is a great gun for me !!!

i hope you understand what i wrote, because were a lot of words i dont knew.
i hope i used my new vocabs correct. feel free to PM me if something is not clear.

Source: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4057

Nerf Maverick Modification (Removal of Air Restrictors)

Admin — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 10:02:52 +0000

Maverick mod: No Limits.
By Baghead
Difficulty: Moderate

The Maverick is one of the most original guns that Nerf has produced of late. The six barrel revolver is actually not that bad out of the box as a stock blaster. But if you want to shoot homemade darts, or just would like to have a little more power, then this mod is for you, but don't be suprised if you're mav isn't OMGExplosion awesome... I won't be. There aren't too many major things to be done to the outer structure or to anything but the six barrels. This gun may seem really complex and hard to mod, but more than anything the maverick just has a lot of moving parts that shouldn't be messed with.

Materials needed:
Fairly small Philips screwdriver
Flat screwdriver
Drill that can use a 3/8 in. drill bit (you can use a smaller bit and then cut with an X-acto knife if necessary)
Hot Glue Gun
Super Glue

Alright! so step uno is to get the shell open, it has two parts. Start off by removing the three screws that are in the yellow and silver slider on the rear, keep the screws for separate because they're different from the rest, (but if you're stupid enough that you can't tell the difference in the length of screws then maybe you shouldn't be modding) Anyway, then remove the slider.

Now remove all the rest of the screws in the outer shell, there's one that was hidden by the slider, don't miss that one.

Open the shell, there's a lot of things in there. You only want to remove the barrel assembly, the rest of the gun will remain un-modded so just put it aside but don't lose any pieces, I lost a spring and it took me 2 hours of searching my floor for one in order to make my gun work properly.

Now with your barrel assembly alone from the rest of the blaster, carefully wedge the flathead screwdriver underneath the grey plastic thing on the front of the barrel and use it to pull the orange plastic around the metal rood off on one end. You need to do that in order to remove anything from the barrel.

Be careful that no parts get lost. there is a spring near the rear end that you must not lose. After that, unscrew the screws on the rear end of the barrel.

Now pull off the rear end of the barrel, watch as all the limiters fall out.

Keep Theese Parts off to the side, but together:

Note:Some mavericks have the main limiters, (the ones that also have the pole that go through the center of store bought micros) glued in, if you do, consider yourself lucky because you won't need to do any gluing and you should skip to the drilling part section.

If the main limiters are loose then you will never need them again. Now quickly hot glue around the edges of the inner barrels and stick the rear end back on and let it dry, this should give a better seal anyway. You won't need to do any drilling.

If the limiters are glued in, drill out the centers of the limiters, this isn't that easy but once you do you can smooth around the inside with an x-acto knife or some sandpaper. (I don't have a picture of this, but I think you Can Handle it.)

Moving on! Screw the three screws back into the back end of the barrel assembly. Re-insert the metal rood and all the necessary parts, don't forget that spring! Then place the barrel assembly back inside the shell and reassemble the outer shell. After that you can replace the slider. An important point in replacing the slider is that you make sure the metal pole goes through the end of the spring that brings it back into resting place. Since the maverick doesn't shoot unless the slider is completely back in place, not having that spring connected could be a bit of a problem.

Well there you go, one maverick that lacks limiters, it really only improves the distance at best about ten feet, but now you can shoot homemade darts. And if you're using a maverick, you're probably not too woried about deadly accuracy from super long distances anyway.

Source: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4952

Nerf Game Types

Admin — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 05:29:27 +0000

Deathmatch
Teams: Two or More
Objective: Eliminate all opponents.
Overview: A deathmatch is the most simple Nerf game and has the most flexible rules. The rules of most deathmatch games are adapted from video games like Quake and Unreal Tournament. The most common game type in NIC Nerf wars is 3-15 deathmatch, which features lives and respawning and creates brief games.

3-15: Players enter the game with three 'lives'. When a player is tagged, they lose a life and leave play for 15 seconds. After the time has elapsed, they can re-enter the game by moving outside of combat and yelling "clear". A player is permanently out when all of their lives have been lost.
4-20: This style has identical rules as 3-15, but each player is given four lives and counts to twenty. 4-20 creates a longer game than 3-15.
00-15: A "count-up" variant of deathmatch. Players do not use lives. When a player is tagged, they leave play for 15 seconds and the shooter records the hit. After a time limit, teams total their points and the team with the most hits wins. Results in 00-15 are often skewed when players inflate their totals or simply forget them.
Wingman: Identical to 3-15, but played with two-man teams. Also known as Tag Team.
Another form that was popular on the East Coast involves having a total of 10 hit points. When a player is hit, he or she continues playing without waiting and loses a hit point. When a player's hits reach zero, that player is considered out for the rest of the round. This style causes arguments when automatic or scattering weapons are used, since it's difficult to track the number of hits from a salvo.

Another version of deathmatch is for the players to have two to three guns, a side arm, a rifle, and a weapon of choice (Optional, depending on the number of players). Players have 1-3 lives depending on their skill ("Veterans" = 1 life, "Normal" = 2 lives, & "Rookies" = 3 lives). The players then make even teams, and begin by firing at each other from their side, while taking cover behind barricades (trees, bushes, couches etc.). If hit, the player will announce that they have lost a life, and will continue playing without pause. When one team is down to their last player, they have the option to charge at the other team's barricades, and get as many enemy players out as they can. A team wins when all the players on the enemy team have been eliminated. A fun way to make things better is a "Limb Survival": when you get shot in any of your limbs you lose it; e.g.: if shot in the leg, you have to hop. Getting shot in the spine, head or heart is an automatic kill.

Gunslinger Heaven
Teams: Two or more
Objective: Eliminate all opponents.
Overview: Gunslinger Heaven is a distant relative of Deathmatch that encourages strategy and daring moves. The game is played with two-man teams, and each player is limited to a single spring pistol. When a player is hit, they remove themselves from the game for 15 seconds and don a flag. When a player wearing a flag is hit, they're permanently eliminated from the game. If a player wearing a flag eliminates another player wearing a flag, the shooter may remove his flag and regain the extra 'life'.

Gunslinger Heaven is best played in a small area with plenty of cover, to prevent standoffs and keep teams from hiding. It creates very short and exciting matches, and is a common game at Nerf Internet Community wars.

Assault
Teams: Two or more
Objective: Prevent opponents from touching a territory or object.
Overview: Play centers around an objective, usually a building or object. The defending team is usually given a terrain advantage and time to entrench, and the attackers have more players or lives. The attacking players have a set amount of time to claim the objective or eliminate the defending team's players.

In many games, the attacking teams can re-enter play an unlimited number of times while the defenders have a finite number of lives. To add variety, the attackers may need to complete a challenge to claim the objective, such as removing batteries from a stopwatch 'time bomb' or taking a piece from a Jenga tower.

Defend the Core is a variant of Assault which uses a target as an objective. The attackers win by tagging the target with a dart. Defend the Core is becoming increasingly popular in NIC wars.

Capture The Flag
Teams: Two or more
Objective: Retrieve the opponent's flag.
Overview: This game is generally played with two teams. Capture the Flag games typically don't include permanent elimination, which moves the emphasis from the players to the flags. CTF is uncommon, as rounds tend to be longer than deathmatches. Multiple CTF variants are played.

Capture the Flag: The classic game. Each team has its own flag. A team wins by retrieving the opponent's flag and returning it to their own base. Often, a team must have their own flag in their base to win the round.
Center Flag Push: Also known as soccer. A single flag is placed in the center of the battlefield. A team wins by retrieving the flag and putting it in the opponent's base.
Center Flag Pull: A single flag is placed in the center of the battlefield. A team wins by retrieving the flag and putting it in their own base. These games often turn into footraces when quick players can outrun the opposing team and simply snatch the flag.

Battlefield selection is very important for a fair and fun CTF game. A good field is symmetrical and offers many routes to the flag, for balance and variety. In addition, plenty of cover should be available around the bases to allow each team to effectively defend their territory. Because this game involves plenty of running, the field should be fairly small.

Humans vs. Zombies
Teams: Two
Objective: Be the last human alive.
Overview: Humans vs. Zombies is a cross between deathmatch and tag. A group of 'survivors' attempts to survive a "zombie outbreak" by avoiding a growing number of 'zombies'. A small number of players begin as zombies, and the rest are survivors. Survivors can use weapons, but zombies can only tag players by hand. If a zombie touches a human, the human becomes 'infected' and joins the zombie team. Zombies can be stunned, but not killed, by being shot with Nerf weapons or hit by a rolled up tube sock. The last human alive wins. Humans vs. Zombies was originally developed by a handful of Goucher College students, and is common in Nerf Internet Community wars.

VIP
Teams: Two
Objective: Defend or tag the VIP as he moves to a base.
Overview: The game involves one VIP who attempts to move from a start point to a distant base. Two teams fight over him: The bodyguards who defend the VIP and the assassins who attempt to take him out. The bodyguards are generally loaded with better firepower, but are almost always outnumbered by the assassins. The VIP himself is generally very lightly armed, or not armed at all. The VIP is always killed with a single shot, and the others usually follow 3-15 elimination rules.

For an interesting reversal of the game, the bodyguards may be required to "rescue" the VIP before taking him to safety.
Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NERF_wars

Nerf Wars

Admin — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 04:47:50 +0000

A NERF war is a competitive activity involving NERF dart blasters. The term covers a wide range of games and gatherings, from informal shootouts in offices and basements to well-organized outdoor battles with high-powered modified[1] blasters. Since foam blasters are relatively safe and cheap, Nerf wars can include participants and battlefields otherwise unsuitable for airsoft and paintball. Note that in the context of wars, the term 'Nerf' is a blanket term for foam-firing toy weapons, regardless of manufacturer.

Informal wars are usually ad-hoc games played in an office or backyard. These are usually all-out free-for-alls that break out spontaneously and last until the supply of darts has run out. Informal wars in a workplace are a cheap and exciting relief from daily tedium, and an interesting method to build cameraderie.

Organized wars are usually more intense, larger in scale, and well-publicized. Typically planned in advance by a group of friends, a Nerf club, or the Nerf Internet Community, these battles are held in large public areas, attract Nerf hobbyists, and usually have standardized rules. Because the games are more competitive and the battlefield larger, blasters are usually modified for increased range.