3. You now have the restrictor removed. If you want to remove the peg you can again use the flat blade drill bit to cut it out from the back of the bolt. Then using a really long screwdriver, or whatever is long and skinny enough to fit, to push it out the back of the bolt.

4. Use some aluminum tape or your favorite decorative sticker to cover up the hole in the side of the barrel portion of the bolt.
Anything stickier than electrical tape will work fine.
5. Before putting the gun back together I would recommend removing the jam door because doing so makes getting the gun back in one piece MUCH easier.

6. Now when your gun is unloaded you can see from the muzzle all the way to the back of the plunger chamber.

You should get ATLEAST 15 more feet using the stock darts. Longer darts work best because they get forced further back into the usable barrel portion of the bolt.
If you want to be able to ram-rod stefans in from the muzzle you will have to glue a 1/2" OD tube into the bolt piece somewhere to prevent them from getting stuck in the plunger chamber. I'll update this post of what length to glue in from the back sometime soon

And that's how I did it. I'm contemplating other possible mods (like banding, adding a second spring, making a new bolt from scratch), but I don't know when I'll get around to them.

Source: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10593

--> Hotglue
--> 2-component-glue
--> a Pepsi bottle
--> a harder spring
--> several files
--> 1/2" va-steel pipe
--> a tool to drill some holes

the mod is quite easy, you change the spring, take the lid of the bottle and drill a hole for the "streching-stick" (how would you guys call it ?) in the middle of it. remove that overpressure valve inside the original tube, then saw off the smaller targeting part from the tube. after all, you need to file the front nozzle to fit to the steel pipe. use a lot of glue for all parts, because they are only sticked together. the new spring i use is so strong, it would burt the whole gun otherwise..... here are some pictures:

here you see the targeting thing i sawed off and put it back in the gun...

here is a picture of the steel pipe i glued on the pressure tube:

use a lot of fat to smooth the way of the spring and to insulate the tube....

here i have the original and the new spring, furthermore you can see the pepsi-lid
(cutted):

another pic:

the filed nozzle:

the glued steel pipe:

and thats the baby after all modification done:

after all i have to say that with this mod i can shoot nearly twice the distance than
unmodded. the nite finder is a great gun for me !!!

i hope you understand what i wrote, because were a lot of words i dont knew.
i hope i used my new vocabs correct. feel free to PM me if something is not clear.

Source: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4057

The Maverick is one of the most original guns that Nerf has produced of late. The six barrel revolver is actually not that bad out of the box as a stock blaster. But if you want to shoot homemade darts, or just would like to have a little more power, then this mod is for you, but don't be suprised if you're mav isn't OMGExplosion awesome... I won't be. There aren't too many major things to be done to the outer structure or to anything but the six barrels. This gun may seem really complex and hard to mod, but more than anything the maverick just has a lot of moving parts that shouldn't be messed with.

Materials needed:
Fairly small Philips screwdriver
Flat screwdriver
Drill that can use a 3/8 in. drill bit (you can use a smaller bit and then cut with an X-acto knife if necessary)
Hot Glue Gun
Super Glue

Alright! so step uno is to get the shell open, it has two parts. Start off by removing the three screws that are in the yellow and silver slider on the rear, keep the screws for separate because they're different from the rest, (but if you're stupid enough that you can't tell the difference in the length of screws then maybe you shouldn't be modding) Anyway, then remove the slider.

Now remove all the rest of the screws in the outer shell, there's one that was hidden by the slider, don't miss that one.

Open the shell, there's a lot of things in there. You only want to remove the barrel assembly, the rest of the gun will remain un-modded so just put it aside but don't lose any pieces, I lost a spring and it took me 2 hours of searching my floor for one in order to make my gun work properly.

Now with your barrel assembly alone from the rest of the blaster, carefully wedge the flathead screwdriver underneath the grey plastic thing on the front of the barrel and use it to pull the orange plastic around the metal rood off on one end. You need to do that in order to remove anything from the barrel.

Be careful that no parts get lost. there is a spring near the rear end that you must not lose. After that, unscrew the screws on the rear end of the barrel.

Now pull off the rear end of the barrel, watch as all the limiters fall out.

Keep Theese Parts off to the side, but together:

Note:Some mavericks have the main limiters, (the ones that also have the pole that go through the center of store bought micros) glued in, if you do, consider yourself lucky because you won't need to do any gluing and you should skip to the drilling part section.

If the main limiters are loose then you will never need them again. Now quickly hot glue around the edges of the inner barrels and stick the rear end back on and let it dry, this should give a better seal anyway. You won't need to do any drilling.

If the limiters are glued in, drill out the centers of the limiters, this isn't that easy but once you do you can smooth around the inside with an x-acto knife or some sandpaper. (I don't have a picture of this, but I think you Can Handle it.)

Moving on! Screw the three screws back into the back end of the barrel assembly. Re-insert the metal rood and all the necessary parts, don't forget that spring! Then place the barrel assembly back inside the shell and reassemble the outer shell. After that you can replace the slider. An important point in replacing the slider is that you make sure the metal pole goes through the end of the spring that brings it back into resting place. Since the maverick doesn't shoot unless the slider is completely back in place, not having that spring connected could be a bit of a problem.

Well there you go, one maverick that lacks limiters, it really only improves the distance at best about ten feet, but now you can shoot homemade darts. And if you're using a maverick, you're probably not too woried about deadly accuracy from super long distances anyway.

Source: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4952